Eskimo Kisses with a 10-Foot Queen

TRAVEL JOURNAL: A family reunion, a soulful elephant, and the spirit of Venus.

Hi, angel! Welcome back to the inside of my brain.

Here’s a travel journal from this past January.

Hope you enjoy!

January 10th, 2025

Siam Square, Bangkok, Thailand

The past four days in Bangkok have been nothing short of extraordinary. After nearly eight months apart, I’ve been reunited with my parents and sister—the people who know me best and love me most. It’s been a privilege to share with them not only my Asia, the continent that has reshaped me over the past year, but also the rhythms of my daily life as a traveler.

We’ve explored Bangkok together, weaving through its pulse and poetry. At the night markets, we sampled fresh fruit—sweet mangoes, tangy tamarind—and delicate rice cakes wrapped in banana leaves. On bikes, we wound through narrow alleyways, waving at locals and exchanging shy smiles with strangers. The temples captivated us, their golden spires reaching skyward as we learned the quiet art of Buddhist prayer. Every moment has felt rich, the climate warm and welcoming, as if the land itself is blessing our reunion.

One day, in search of something truly memorable, we ventured an hour outside the city to visit an elephant sanctuary. I approached this excursion with hesitation. Elephant sanctuaries often walk a fine ethical line, and I wasn’t sure how I’d feel about supporting one. The sanctuary we chose claimed to rescue elephants from the cruel industries of logging and performance, and their mission seemed noble. Yet, upon arrival, I found myself questioning the reality of what I saw. The elephants, while clearly loved, didn’t have the space they would in the wild. The ethics felt as complex as the animals themselves.

Still, meeting Vasana, the ten-foot-tall Asian elephant assigned to my family for the day, was an experience that transcended doubt. Her presence was commanding, her skin rough but warm beneath my hands. Her eyes, though, were what struck me most—soft, deep, and impossibly tender, as if they held the secrets of centuries.

We spent the afternoon caring for her. We scrubbed her massive frame, exfoliated her tough skin, and smeared her in mud before hosing her down. We fed her handfuls of bananas and walked beside her, her steady, stomping footsteps echoing through the fields. I felt an inexplicable kinship with Vasana, a being so powerful yet so gentle. I didn’t want to tame her or ride her; I just wanted to be near her, to share her space and her spirit. I kissed her rough cheeks, scratched behind her ears, and gently pressed my nose to her trunk in an Eskimo kiss. Leaving her felt impossible.

My sister, too, was enamored. We walked on either side of Vasana, flanking her like loyal companions, laughing as her trunk curled around leaves and roots with surprising precision. The connection was undeniable, and it stirred memories of our fifth family member—Venus, our pit bull-Labrador mix waiting back in New York. Before I left for Asia and my sister went off to college, the two of us got matching tattoos of Venus, a sketch my sister had drawn.

As we walked Vasana through the fields, I glanced at the ink on my arm and thought of Venus, her loyalty, her love. In Vasana, I saw the same spirit: unwavering, soulful, protective. And in that moment, I saw the same spirit reflected in my parents and sister. The connection between us was as clear as the sun-dappled fields we walked through.

Solo traveling has its magic, but being with my family is something else entirely. It’s a privilege—a gift—to share this adventure with them, to hear my sister laugh as she tosses bananas to Vasana, to feel my parents’ hands resting on my shoulder as we soak in the moment together.

Tomorrow, we’re leaving Bangkok for Koh Samet, a small island just a few hours away. There’s no grand itinerary awaiting us there—just the beach, the ocean, and time to catch up on everything we’ve missed. And honestly, after days like today, that feels like more than enough.